The streets of downtown Charleston were dark, lit only by the glow of gas lamps. A lively melody spilled from a pub onto the street, the singer’s voice familiar. He sat on a stool just inside the door, playing his guitar. As we entered, he smiled and nodded. We’d been there before and enjoyed the lively atmosphere, but this time was different. The pub was empty except for one couple at a table and a few people at the bar. Between wistful melodies, the singer halfheartedly joked about the emptiness, then sat at our table to talk for a while.
Downtown Charleston, S.C., is a two-hour drive from our home in West Columbia. Eddie and I visit there regularly just to admire the beauty and enjoy the vibrant atmosphere. Last week, we drove there specifically to photograph the city and see how things were going.
On the drive, we reminisced about the many national conferences we’d hosted in Downtown Charleston while serving in the S.C. National Guard.
It was a popular choice among desirable locations, and we always took pride in showing it off. Today, we continue to introduce out-of-state guests to the romantic city. This year, readers of Travel & Leisure magazine voted Charleston the No. 1 city in the U.S. for the eighth consecutive year. The criteria for the coveted award are based on sights, landmarks, culture, cuisine, friendliness, and shopping.
As we got closer to Charleston, I checked my hotel app for available rooms. To my surprise, the Elliott House Inn appeared. Typically, the Elliott House Inn, known as ‘Charleston’s most charming historic inn,’ is booked this time of year. This was our first indication of the pandemic’s effects. The Inn is nestled among other elegant structures on historic Queen Street, steps from Charleston’s Museum Mile, the French Quarter, and The Battery. We didn’t hesitate to book the room!
We entered the city on Meeting Street, Downtown Charleston’s most historic street. It wasn’t long before we noticed outward signs of the pandemic. First, we saw the windows of one of our favorite restaurants covered with brown paper. Then we saw the empty streets around the historic Charleston City Market, where there were usually throngs of people and traffic.
Turning onto Queen Street, we checked in at The Elliott House Inn, a quaint structure built in 1861. The desk clerk apologized for the lack of typical Southern hospitality. Because of the pandemic, the evening social and complimentary breakfast were temporarily canceled. He graciously noted that coffee service would be available in the cobblestone courtyard the next morning. We assured him that no apology was necessary and that we were delighted to be there.
The other magnificent structures surrounding The Elliott House include 82 Queen (1688), Husk (1893), and Poogan’s Porch (1888). Originally private homes, they range from one hundred to over three hundred years old. Today, these restaurants serve equally magnificent Southern cuisine.
We called for reservations and learned that Husk was fully booked, but walk-ins were welcome. The maitre d’ apologized as she seated us on the second-floor balcony, explaining that indoor seating was full. We said no apology necessary; we wanted to eat outside! We dined in the shade of a live oak tree, with a gentle breeze, overlooking the pale pink walls of The Mills House Hotel. Soon, other tables on the balcony filled up, and we were happy to see more customers waiting outside.
Husk boasts about their ingredients:
“If it doesn’t come from the South, it’s not coming through the door.”
A nice surprise at Husk is that you never know what’s on the menu. It changes daily, sometimes as often as twice a day, depending on what produce is available. These were our menu selections:
Dinner in Downtown Charleston
First (sharable)
Gem Lettuces, SC Figs, Pickled Blueberries, Ricotta, Toasted Walnut, Peach Vinaigrette
Entree
Sweet Chili Glazed Duck Leg, Pan-Fried Cabbage, Heirloom Peppers, Blackberry, XO Broth, Cilantro – spicy and cooked to perfection, no knife needed for the duck, just a fork
NC Chicken, House-Made Pasta, Golden Turnip, Spinach, Preserved Lemon, Chicken Jus, Aged Cheese – a perfect blend of Southern vegetables with a little sour kick.
Walking at dusk, during the Blue Hour, when deep blue hues and cold saturated colors of the sky are ideal for city photography, was pure magic. In Downtown Charleston at this time of day, the scene is enchanting!
As we walked, we saw the essence of Charleston and why it continues to be named the No. 1 city.
Downtown Charleston is a strikingly romantic scene in the evening, with Gas-lit streets lined by live oaks that frame centuries-old architecture.
The atmosphere in some areas is hauntingly beautiful, perfect for a tour with Charleston Terrors: Experience Charleston’s Most Haunted Ghost Tour. We saw an occasional small group huddled, not too closely, around a storyteller
Carroll Brown was playing his regular gig at Tommy Condon’s Restaurant, and we ducked in to listen for a while. During Carroll’s break, he sat with us and discussed how the pandemic had affected his routine as a musician. Before COVID-19, he was working gigs almost every day of the year at regular venues in South Carolina, Georgia, and Florida. This year, he wondered whether he’d have even half as much work.
We felt a poignant sense of loss about how the pandemic has affected so many.
With adept attention to maintaining a positive spirit, the great storyteller shifted the subject to history, another of his passions. Soon he had transported us back to 1780–1782. Charles Town was occupied by the British, and Patriots such as Francis Marion were active.
The next morning, we headed to The Battery to take pictures during the Golden Hour, when the sky turns from red to yellow, creating golden tones for landscape photography. Stunning views at The Battery stretch across the harbor toward Fort Sumter and Fort Moultrie National Historical Parks and back to Rainbow Row on E. Bay Street. The Battery was empty except for a lone runner on the promenade, offering an extraordinary view for inspiration.
We turned back toward Meeting Street for breakfast at Toast!, voted the best restaurant by the New York Times and Post & Courier. The menu offers something for everyone, from elegant to simple, all Southern. Our selections included both.
Shrimp Etouffee atop creamy Carolina stone-ground grits, topped with fried green tomatoes.
Old Fashioned Oatmeal served cold with skim milk, bananas, blueberries, brown sugar, walnuts, raisins & honey.
At first, we were the only patrons, and our waitress graciously thanked us for coming in. The place would have been packed before the pandemic. As the waiter seated another couple, servers gathered at the hostess station as we left. On the way out, I silently prayed they would all be busy again soon.
Downtown Charleston was filled with renewal, hope, and inspiration.
After breakfast, we arrived at the aquarium just in time to see Tom Mullikin and the South Carolina 7 Expedition cross the finish line after 30 days on the Palmetto Trail. State and local officials were on hand to congratulate the group for showcasing South Carolina’s beauty and for leading compelling discussions about the state’s resiliency. After the ceremony, we headed to another of our favorite restaurants, Fleet Landing, housed in a retired 1940s naval building. As we walked, traffic picked up and more people were out and about. Children were playing at The Fountain at Waterfront Park. We passed the busy construction site for Charleston’s new waterfront hotel, The Cooper, which is projected to be completed in 2022.
A tour of Downtown Charleston isn’t complete without enjoying Historic King Street Shopping. King Street is the second most historic street in Charleston.
With 300 blocks of shopping, it’s worth planning ahead for the best experience. Three distinct districts include the Lower King Street Antiques District, the Middle King Street Fashion District, and the Upper King Street Design and Dining District. With little time to spare and tired feet, I headed directly to the Fashion District, with Eddie reluctantly following. In a little under a mile, we walked up one side of Middle King Street and down the other. My favorite shoe store was gone, but I had a great time shopping!
As we drove home, Eddie and I reflected on our brief but refreshing experience in Charleston. The city’s beauty consoled us, and its people were humbling. Musicians, waiters, desk clerks, shop attendants, and others who kept their spirits up despite the pandemic. Iconic vendors at City Market uplifted our spirit: Gullah artisans selling sweetgrass baskets; the refreshing art of Johnathan Green; and the hat shops, where we love to try the latest styles and still did, with the added precaution of using a disposable liner. We heard inspiring visions of the future from local and state leaders and saw evidence of growth and renewal.
We thought in awe about how we as people adapt to change and inspire it as well.
About Carroll Brown
Carroll Brown performs across the Southeast at festivals, pubs, and other venues and hosts annual tours to Ireland and Scotland. See Carroll’s bio and schedule at Carroll Brown Music.
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