A Love For Tradition: What Makes Bhutan So Happy
“Gross National Happiness is more important than Gross Domestic Product.” – Jigme Singye Wangchuck, 4th King of Bhutan.
High in the hills, what we would call mountains, we traveled to Talo, 9,186 feet above Punakha, the ancient capital of Bhutan. A small pickup truck passed in the opposite lane. Out the window of our minivan, I saw the most remarkable sight. For an instant, the head and shoulders of a group of monks appeared above the truck’s cab. They were all laughing with abandon as if they were having the times of their lives. Was this a glimpse of Bhutan’s Gross National Happiness, I wondered. What makes Bhutan so happy?
Traveling with South Carolina ETV, Eddie and I immersed ourselves in Bhutan’s culture and tradition. Along the way, we learned a little about what makes Bhutan so happy.
Thimphu, the capital of Bhutan, is a haven for food lovers and shoppers. After an early dinner, we set out for the shopping experience of a lifetime. It was time to select our festival attire, and in a small shop on the main thoroughfare, the females selected and tried on their Kiras and the males a Gho. Colorful and practical, these traditional garments are the national dress, representing Bhutan’s culture and identity. Men also wear a scarf, called a kabney or rachu; the color identifies the person’s level of work. Every day and everywhere in Bhutan, people proudly wear the national attire. In the shop, our choices of beautiful colors seemed endless. Yellow is the only color off-limits, reserved only for the royal family.
Buddhist religious history and mythology give the Kingdom of Bhutan another name, Land of the Thunder Dragon. The dragon is the national symbol; you see it flying on Bhutan’s flag. When I mention that I traveled to Bhutan, people usually ask about its location. In the Eastern Himalayas, part of South Asia, Bhutan is bordered by China to the north and India to the south. Its elevation is 10,761 feet (3,280 meters), literally in the clouds, and people often write of its beauty as “a Kingdom in the clouds.” A direct flight from South Carolina may take approximately seventeen hours.
Bhutan’s national sport is not what you’d think. With enchanting mountains, you might think it is mountain climbing or snow skiing. But no, the hills are sacred. Bhutan’s national sport is archery. We watched a match and couldn’t believe the distance to the target: 145 meters (476 ft)!
A strong national identity contributes to what makes Bhutan so happy.
Bhutan welcomes tourists in a sustainable way that protects its natural resources. Agriculture and forestry are the foundation—I don’t think I’ve ever seen more abundance at outdoor markets. Chilies are the thing! The national dish is a spicy stew of chilies, cheese, onions, and tomatoes, and we had plenty—at least what we could handle. The restaurants toned down the heat for our unaccustomed taste buds. Chilies are what makes Bhutan so happy!
As for forestry, Bhutan is the world’s first carbon-negative country, as explained in World Bank Blogs. The article’s title is “Of Dragons, Data, and Clouds: Bhutan’s Journey into Carbon Markets, Technology, and a Resilient Future,”- Vives, Tashi, and Singay, October 19, 2023.
“The forests absorb more carbon dioxide than the country emits from all activities.”
Spirituality is a significant part of Bhutanese culture and tradition. U.S. estimates of Bhutan’s population is 867,775. Of these, 75 percent practice Buddhism, and 23 percent are Hindu. The constitution recognizes Buddhism as the state’s “spiritual heritage.” – “2022 Report on International Religious Freedom: Bhutan,” U.S. Department of State.
Since the 7th Century AD, the Bhutanese people have practiced Buddhism. Throughout the centuries, the country has made the religion its own through history, legend, and practices. Dharma Prayer Wheels are ubiquitous across the country, outdoors and inside. From very large to hand-held versions, the wheel makes the spiritual practice personal. Chant the words Om Mani Padme Hung and spin the wheel. Practitioners gain generosity, patience, diligence, and wisdom and guard against jealousy, poverty, and possessiveness. Find the three jewels of Buddha at the wheel’s center: teacher, teachings, and community.
At every opportunity, we made our path around the Dharma Prayer Wheels three times in a clockwise direction. In addition to enlightenment, the wheels grant wishes and relief from misery, which we all desire. The tradition of drawing ever closer to enlightenment is what makes Bhutan so happy.
Stunningly beautiful landscapes match Bhutan’s stunning architecture. These include prayer wheels, monasteries or temples (temples also serve as dzongs or military fortresses), and stupas or Chortons (Buddhist shrines and monuments). The Buddha Dordenma looks benevolently over the capital city. At 54 meters (177 feet), it is one of the tallest seated Buddhas in the world, and people can look back at it from the surrounding area. After a close-up look and circle around the bronze colossal, we departed for the subtropical valley of Punakha, 45 miles northeast.
The route to Punakha climbs another thousand feet through Dochu La (Pass), one of Bhutan’s most scenic views. In 2003, the King of Bhutan, with 6000 soldiers, pushed Indian insurgents out of Bhutan. Ashi Dorji Wangmo Wangchuk, the eldest Queen Mother of Bhutan, commissioned 108 stone structures here, called the Druk (Dragon) Wangyal Chortens, to honor the 108 Bhutanese soldiers killed during the event.
The Chortons also represent a Kingdom that has skillfully negotiated and fought to preserve its sovereignty throughout history.
Something puzzling grabbed our attention as we arrived in the Punakha Valley area near the temple of Chimi Lhakhang. There, we saw giant phallus symbols painted on the sides of shops. Getting off the bus, we perused the shops and found wooden phalluses of every size: statues, jewelry, and other mementos. The industrious merchants located their shops at the bottom of an easy uphill hike to Chini Lhakhang, the fertility temple.
Known as the Divine Madman, Drukpa Kunley was a man of wisdom and humor in the 14th century who used outrageous means to teach Buddhism. He built a chorten on the hill. According to traditional beliefs, he kept a wood and ivory phallus symbol decorated with a silver handle to anoint pilgrims with the blessings of fertility. In the 15th century, a temple followed, and today, people continue to make pilgrimages there to receive the blessing of fertility, with women sometimes carrying a wooden phallus symbol. People also seek wisdom and other wishes, such as inspiring names for their newborns. After our pilgrimage to the temple, we headed to the Talo Tshechu (festival), a beautiful village in the hills above Punakha.
UNESCO considers the “Sacred Mask Dance of Drum and Stick” a Masterpiece of Humanity’s Oral and Intangible Heritage. From the valley of Punakha, we drove winding roads up 2,800 meters (9100 feet) to the village of Talo. Bhutan’s dancers follow a 300-year tradition that honors the deities. The dancers wear headdresses of fierce animals and silk costumes. They carry out coordinated stretching, turning, and squatting movements. The masks, our guide explained, embody the deity and protect the dancer from evil spirits.
A love of tradition and spiritual connection is what makes Bhutan so happy.
Again, the phallus symbol. Clowns wearing bright masks and carrying giant wooden phalli interacted intermittently with the dancers and crowds around the field’s perimeter.
With the fertility temple close by, the phallus symbol is pervasive in this part of Bhutan, but people across the country revere it in cultural traditions. These are not mere clowns but Atsaras or storytellers, representing a complex tradition of a tolerant, sometimes jovial state of enlightenment. The red mask symbolizes a burning passion, and the phallus symbolizes power and fertility. According to Buddhist legend, the grotesque-looking figures are the disciples of Buddha, enlightened storytellers, and mischievous too. Anointing young girls on the head with the phallus symbol brings fertility and happiness. Bemused at this lighthearted humor, we watched and even participated a little. The phallus symbol is part of the festival tradition and part of what makes Bhutan so happy.
We participated in religious services at the Zilukha Nunnery and Tashichho Dzong, the seat of Bhutan’s government and spiritual life. The Monk at Khamsum Yeuley Namgyal Chorten welcomed us kindly, providing fresh fruit to all. People welcomed us wherever we went in Bhutan.
One more experience lay ahead, and it would be our most challenging.
Starting at 8,000 feet, we began climbing the slippery, snow-covered path. The clouds shifted every few minutes to alternately expose and reveal Bhutan’s iconic monastery. Finally, we reached a view of it almost straight across from us, and we would be there quickly if we could walk straight into thin air. But we were still 800 stone steps away, 400 at a sharp incline down and 400 the same, up. Then, across a short bridge beside a stunning waterfall, there was only a short distance to go. Finally, we would reach the Paro Taksang monastery, Tiger’s Nest, at 3,286 meters (10,778 feet).
The residing Monk welcomed us, and after bowing three times to the Buddha and chanting “Om Mani Padme Hung,” we sank gratefully into the cold stone floor for a few minutes of quiet reflection.
Our Guides
Traveling with the SCETV Endowment is a rewarding adventure into culture and learning—this trip, “Bucket-List Bhutan & Thailand with Alasdair Clayre,” was a magnificent wonder.
Coby Hennecy, CPA, CFRE, has been with the Endowment since 1999 and has served as its Executive Director since 2009. In addition to leading the overall organization, she led the capital campaign to equip the new South Carolina Public Radio Studios and the One State, Many Voices campaign, doubling the Endowment’s capacity to fund local South Carolina ETV and SC Public Radio productions. She is active with civic, professional, and charitable organizations and is the Immediate Past President of the Rotary Club of Spartanburg.
Alasdair Clayre combines his years of experience in the travel industry with a passion for natural and cultural conservation. His current focus is the village of Long Banga in the highlands of Sarawak, Malaysian Borneo, where he leads a project specializing in Liberica coffee production. He has a PhD in Social Anthropology from the Universiti Malaysia.
Tshering Dorji, Founding Partner of NKN Ventures’ Window to Bhutan, “See and Experience Bhutan, like no other!” Tshering’s knowledge of Bhutan’s history, customs, iconic cultural heritage sites, and storytelling skills combine to make the experience of Bhutan both remarkable and unforgettable.
Norbu Wangdi is a Culture and Trekking Guide and professional photographer based in Bhutan. “Made in Bhutan; shooting worldwide.” He loves taking travelers on inspiring and unforgettable journeys through Bhutan’s breathtaking landscapes and cultural heritage sites. (Photo courtesy Norbu Wangdi.)
Travel Notes
Bhutan has moved cautiously and thoughtfully towards modernization. As our guide explained, change has come with a cost. In Bhutan, young people desiring different opportunities are leaving. This compelling 60 Minutes video by correspondent Leslie Stahl sheds light on the subject and what Bhutan plans to do about it.
For more pictures of Bhutan, go to Marie’s Gallery here: Bhutan
